recipes

I have an incredible weakness for good jam or marmalade, and every so often, I find that my cabinets and refrigerator have been completely overwhelmed by too many jars that I’ve stashed away. In times like these, jam cookies are my friend.

These pinwheel cookies are a version of a Finnish cookie called joulutorttu. The traditional joulutorttu have prune jam inside, but any thick marmalade or jam will work—not jelly though, as it’s too thin. Here, I’ve also upped the ante in the pastry: rye flour adds a bit more wheat-y oomph, and a dash of caraway seeds on top provide a crunch of spice. I experimented with a combination of different marmalades, ranging from an exotically tropical Meyer lemon-guava to a traditionally British Seville orange to an extra bitter grapefruit. All were delicious, and it goes to show that with a good marmalade or jam on hand, the possibilities, at least cookie-wise, are endless.

Rye and Marmalade Pinwheel Cookies
Makes 12-14 4″ cookies

Pastry

  • 1½ cups rye flour
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour
  • ¾ tsp salt
  • 1 cup  butter, cold
  • 1 tbsp flavor extract (vanilla, hazelnut, or almond)
  • 7 to 8 tbsp water, cold

Cookies

  • 1 egg yolk
  • 2 tbsp cream
  • 2 tbsp turbinado sugar
  • ½ cup marmalade
  • 1 tbsp caraway seeds

Note: these cookies are best the day they are made, but the unbaked and unshaped dough can be stored for up to 3 days before use.

  1. For the pastry: Combine the rye flour, all-purpose flour, and salt in a bowl. Using a pastry cutter, cut the cold butter into the flour until the size of small peas. Add the extract and mix briefly. Gradually add the water one tablespoon at a time until the dough holds together when pressed between two fingers. There should still be visible lumps of butter—do not overmix!
  2. Form the dough into a rectangle by kneading very briefly. Wrap in parchment paper or plastic wrap, and chill for at least 1 hour, until firm.
  3. Once the dough is firm, roll it out into a large rectangle, about a ⅓″ thick. Fold the short ends over the middle in thirds to form three layers. Turn the dough by 90° and flip over. Repeat the previous steps twice more: roll to rectangle, fold in short ends, turn dough, and flip. Keep the dough cold as you work–if it begins to soften, return the dough to the refrigerator to chill until firm again. Once the rolling and turns are complete, wrap the dough and refrigerate again, about 30 minutes.
  4. For cookies: Preheat oven to 400°F. Prepare two baking sheets lined with parchment paper. Set aside.
  5. On a lightly-floured surface, roll out the dough until about ⅛″ thick. Cut out 4 x 4″ squares and slit each corner diagonally, ending about halfway to the center, like an “X” through the square without the lines meeting in the center. Or use a pinwheel-shaped cookie cutter. Place the squares on the baking sheets, allowing about 1-inch between each cookie. Return to the refrigerator to chill if the dough has softened.
  6. Whisk to combine the egg yolk and cream. Brush the squares with egg wash, and sprinkle lightly with turbinado sugar. Spoon about a teaspoon of marmalade in the center of each square. Fold a cut corner of the square into the center, pressing the pastry down firmly to make sure the corner sticks. Repeat with alternating corners to finish the pinwheel shape. Sprinkle lightly with caraway seeds.
  7. Bake one sheet at a time for 15 – 18 minutes, until the tops are golden brown. Keep the unbaked cookies chilled. Remove from the oven and let the tray and cookies cool completely on wire racks before removing the cookies.

{Recipe and Photos by Stephanie Shih for Anthology Magazine}

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Vibrant Slaw

by Alexis on April 11, 2014

As the weather finally warms—it has been an brutal and never-ending winter for a lot of people—my thoughts wander to bright, juicy, crunchy foods. Though I’ve made rich and indulgent creations a number of times here, I relish in simple, vibrant foods that offer full sensory satisfaction. Including color in your diet is not only beautiful, it is also delicious and healthy! This recipe is simple, with absolutely no cooking to do. Nada.

On a recent day with farmer friends, I was fortunate to be sent home with sharply peppery arugula flowers. I thought the kick of those pretty blooms would make an excellent finish to the colorful slaw I already had planned.

There are two things in this salad-slaw that may not immediately appeal: cabbage and fish sauce. Please humor me, as I would never lead you astray.

I love cabbage, but that is despite its sturdiness. Cabbage is not exotic, but it is cheap, good for you, and can feed a crowd. Using a mandoline renders unwieldy vegetables delicate, even lace-like. The mandoline’s handiwork makes for a stunning presentation, too.

Now, the fish sauce—even the name used to turn me off. However, as my palate has evolved and my adventurousness broadened, I hunger for the roundly savory quality it imparts. Used as an accent rather than a base, fish sauce adds new layers to many dishes—if you’ve heard people dreamily talking about umami, fish sauce is one of the key players in that taste.

Afford yourself patience in the chopping department in prepping this jewel-toned slaw. Not only is the mandoline extremely sharp, but you may find a meditation in the work. If not, have a small glass of wine as you carefully slice and chop. The results will not only be sharp-savory-sweet and umami-rich, but also a visual delight for everyone to whom you serve it.

Vibrant Slaw

Dressing

  • 2 limes, juiced
  • 2 tbsp sherry vinegar
  • 3-4 tbsp fish sauce
  • 2 tsp brown sugar
  • 6 or so tbsp olive oil
  • freshly cracked black pepper

Salad

  • 1/2 head red cabbage
  • 1 red bell pepper
  • 2-3 carrots
  • arugula flowers, or other peppery edible flowers (see note)

Note: If you cannot get these, then a small green chili pepper will do nicely.

  1. In a small bowl, combine all dressing ingredients and whisk vigorously. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed, and set aside.
  2. Using a mandoline or a very sharp knife, slice the cabbage very thinly and place into a mixing bowl. Toss half the dressing in with the cabbage, coating to combine.
  3. Next, thinly slice the bell pepper into a small bowl. Guide a vegetable peeler along the length of each carrot to make long ribbons. Stack the ribbons on top of each other and slice thin rows, then cut across rows into thirds, to make matchsticks. Place carrot matchsticks in a bowl of cold water.
  4. Pick the blossoms and buds from your greens, or trim flowers into bite-sized pieces if using larger blooms like nasturtiums. If you are using a chili pepper instead, set mandoline to the thinnest setting and slice into wafer-thin rings. Put flowers or chili slices into a small bowl.
  5. If you are dining with friends, you can bring the color-filled bowls to the table and allow people to create their own salad-slaw design. Otherwise, place a bit of the cabbage mixture onto dishes, then loop the bell pepper ribbons around, followed by a scatter of the carrot matchsticks. Lastly, add the beautiful flowers. Drizzle a touch more dressing and you are ready for an explosion of flavor and texture. Every bit healthy and a sensory treat, perfect to usher in spring.

{ Images and Recipe by Melina Hammer for Anthology Magazine }

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Apple Flognarde

by Alexis on March 7, 2014

After the literal multi-layered feat that was last month’s recipe, I thought, “What simple dish provides me great joy without making myself crazy in preparing it?” A long-time fan of custards both sweet and savory, this dish from a favorite “foods of France” book is one I return to regularly. This custard, called a flognarde—because of its origins in Auvergne and the type of fruit incorporated—is similar to the better-known clafoutis and is every bit as delicious.

Think rustic French paysage and the simple, perfect foods that represent it. It is a particularly unfussy recipe. With the most basic of ingredients, you have a presentation-worthy dessert. Or breakfast, if you’re feeling decadent. Et voilà!

Apple Flognarde
Serves 4

  • 4 free-range eggs
  • 5 tbsp flour
  • 4 tbsp sugar
  • 2/3 cup milk, use grass-fed whole milk if possible
  • zest from 2-3 meyer lemons
  • 3 apples, peeled and cut into wedges
  • 4 tbsp butter, cubed, plus more to grease the pan
  • confectioners sugar, for dusting

Note: You may substitute sliced pears for the apples, or include a scatter of raisins or grapes if you want to experiment with variations on the flognarde.

  1. Grease a medium enameled cast iron skillet. Preheat oven to 400°F.
  2. Mix together the flour, sugar, zest, and milk. Add the eggs and beat vigorously. Continue beating while pouring mixture into the pan.
  3. Fan the apple wedges and lay out in a pleasing fashion. It’s okay if they slide around a little as you place them.
  4. Dot with butter and bake until the custard rises and has turned golden brown at the edges, about 30 minutes. Dust with confectioners sugar and serve hot or cold.

{Photos by Melina Hammer}

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I’m already scheming ways to work this cake by our talented food contributor Melina Hammer into my agenda as soon as possible. Half dessert, half after-dinner drink, this seems like ideal party fare and the perfect way to keep friends lingering around a table a bit longer. (By the way, are you following Melina on Instagram? Her stream is full of delicious glimpses of life in the South!) Thanks for sharing, Melina! —Alexis

Bourbon-soaked, densely chocolatey layer cake with mocha buttercream.

Have I got your attention? I’ve been thinking about the kinds of things people reliably go bonkers for in the world of food, and I realize that layer cakes hold a special place in people’s hearts. Or minds. Or is it stomachs? Whatever the case, it had been a while since I’d fashioned one.

As I contemplated in which direction to take the plunge, the outrageous, soaked, savory/sweet flavors of my wedding cake washed over me. That cake conjured much in the way of heady delights—so much so that I felt the need to recreate its sinful layers and see if I could hit the perfect balance of booze, chocolate, and velvety cream. I think it worked as my husband, when offered his first slice, had only superlatives and “oh damns” to utter in-between bites.

So, if it’s time to endeavor to make a magnificent layer cake—perhaps a last minute celebration of sweet Valentine’s love?—or just to get rocked by something sinfully great, let this decadent beauty woo you.

Bourbon-Soaked Cake with Mocha Buttercream

For the cake:

  • 2 sticks butter, softened, plus more to grease pans
  • 2 tbsp cocoa powder, plus more to dust pans
  • 5 oz bittersweet chocolate, chopped
  • 1/4 cup instant espresso
  • 1/2 tsp kosher salt
  • 1 cup good bourbon like Bulleit, plus more to drizzle onto cake layers
  • 2/3 cup cane sugar
  • 3 eggs, plus 1 additional egg white to paint the fruit
  • 1 tbsp good vanilla extract
  • 1 tbsp baking soda
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1/4 cup caster sugar, for the fruit
  • 7-11 lady apples or seckel pears

For the mocha buttercream:

  • 5 oz bittersweet chocolate, chopped
  • 5 oz milk chocolate, chopped
  • 2 1/2 tbsp instant espresso
  • 3 sticks unsalted butter, softened
  • 1/4 tsp kosher salt
  • 1 tsp good vanilla extract
  • 2 cups confectioners sugar, sifted

Note: If you can, bake the cakes a day before icing them. They are are easier to work with when chilled. You can make the buttercream in advance too. Store buttercream refrigerated in an airtight container, then allow to come to room temp and give it a good whip before frosting the cake.

  1. For the cakes: Using a pastry brush, paint a thin layer of softened butter all over two 8-inch round by 2-inch high cake pans. Be sure to paint along the crease. To line the pans with parchment, start with a square piece, fold in half, then in half again. Fold one side to the other to make a triangle, and repeat one more time. Place the point of the triangle at the center of the pan, press parchment along bottom and crease parchment at pan edge. Snip off the extra with a pair of scissors, unfold, and spread flat on the bottom of the pan. Dust the pans with cocoa powder, tapping and tilting until the interior is completely coated. Empty leftover cocoa powder from first pan into the next and repeat until it also is well-coated.
  2. In a double boiler over simmering water, melt bittersweet chocolate until just smooth. Remove from heat and allow to cool a bit. Combine cocoa powder and espresso in a heatproof measuring cup. Pour enough boiling water in to reach the 1 cup line and stir until dissolved. Add salt and stir to dissolve, then pour in bourbon. Set aside.
  3. Preheat oven to 325°F. In a large bowl using an electric mixer, beat the butter until pale and fluffy, about 3-5 minutes. Add sugar and beat until well incorporated. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the vanilla extract, baking soda, and chocolate. Continue mixing on medium high, scraping down the sides as needed, until the mixture is well combined..
  4. Add about a quarter of the bourbon mixture to the mixer bowl and with the mixer on low, blend well. Next, add about a third of the flour, mix well. Repeat like this until you finish with the last of the bourbon mixture.
  5. Pour batter into prepared pans, smooth the tops, and smack the pans onto the counter a few times to settle the batter. Place into the oven and rotate the cakes halfway through, baking for 25 minutes or until a toothpick inserted at the center comes out clean. Cool cakes in pans on a wire rack for 15 minutes, then invert onto rack.
  6. Drizzle a tablespoon or so of bourbon over each cake. Wrap in cellophane and chill for at least an hour, as long as overnight.
  7. For the buttercream: Place chocolate chunks into a double boiler over simmering water and melt until just smooth. Remove from heat and set aside. Use a teaspoon or so of boiling water from the double boiler, dissolve the espresso powder by swirling it in a small dish. Allow to cool for a few minutes.
  8. With an electric mixer beat the butter until light and fluffy. Add in the espresso and beat to incorporate. Add the chocolate and beat until well mixed, then add the vanilla and kosher salt. Scrape the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula, mix everything together.
  9. With the mixer on its lowest setting, add the confectioners sugar in stages and beat until creamy, about 2-3 minutes. Beat for a few more minutes once well incorporated, until mixture becomes even lighter and more fluffy. Store overnight refrigerated in a sealed container, or prepare to frost cake layers.
  10. To Assemble: Use a pastry brush to paint egg white onto bottom two-thirds of a lady apple or pear. Holding the stem, roll fruit around in a small dish filled with the caster sugar. Lightly tap any extra crust of sugar off and set aside onto a plate for later. Repeat with remaining fruits and set aside.
  11. After having chilled the cakes, remove cellophane from one and set on top of a piece of parchment. Carefully slice each layer in half so you have 4 equal layers, each about 1″ thick. Place one layer on your cake stand and refrigerate the others.
  12. With an offset spatula, work a quarter of the frosting from the center outward and in back-and-forth gestures to spread it towards the edge. Place the second cake layer, centered and level with the first. Press down lightly with your hand flat on the surface of the cake to even cake and frosting. Continue stacking layer atop frosting, until everything looks level and absolutely gorgeous.
  13. After the top layer has been frosted—I kept the frosting in from the edge to create a border for the fruits—position the lady apples, or whichever fruits you have chosen to use, in a pleasing fashion. If you have survived all this, chances are you have a stunningly beautiful and delicious cake in front of you. Invite friends over and enjoy! They will have nothing but love for you.

{Photos by Melina Hammer for Anthology Magazine}

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Craftsman and Wolves Online

by Alexis on February 3, 2014

Craftsman and Wolves quickly became a favorite spot for the Anthology team after chef and owner William Werner opened his Valencia Street patisserie in 2012. His confections, from elaborate cube cakes to humble, but best-we’ve-ever-tasted, chocolate chip cookies kept us visiting. (Regular readers may recall that for last year’s spring issue, we asked William to put together a menu featuring some of the treats he serves as part of his tea service. The recipes are superb—if you haven’t already, try making the Hazelnut White Chocolate Tile.)

But even with frequent visits and a few recipes in my collection, I’ll still take all the Craftsman and Wolves I can get. So when William announced a new online CAW shop over the weekend—carrying favorites like Smoked Butter Caramels, Damn Fine Granola, and Confiture Cafe au Lait—I was thrilled. If you’ve got the same addiction I do, or if you don’t live near enough to stop in, the new online shop promises to bring delectability to your mailbox.

{ Images from Craftsman and Wolves }

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